Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Gardens
Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered train pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form.
It is maybe the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with plump purplish berries on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just north of Bristol downtown.
"I've noticed people hiding heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He's pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make wine from several discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an official name yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.
Urban Vineyards Across the Globe
So far, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which features more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of Paris's historic artistic district neighbourhood and more than three thousand vines overlooking and within the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them throughout the world, including cities in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens help urban areas stay greener and ecologically varied. These spaces protect open space from development by establishing long-term, productive agricultural units inside cities," explains the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those produced in urban areas are a result of the earth the plants grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the people who care for the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, community, environment and history of a city," notes the president.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to gather the vines he grew from a cutting left in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the rain comes, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "This is the enigmatic Polish variety," he comments, as he removes damaged and mouldy grapes from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Activities Throughout Bristol
The other members of the collective are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of wine from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty vines. "I love the aroma of these vines. It is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the car windows on holiday."
Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has already survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they continue producing from this land."
Sloping Gardens and Natural Production
Nearby, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated over 150 plants situated on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a city street."
Today, the filmmaker, 60, is picking clusters of dusty purple Rondo grapes from lines of plants arranged along the hillside with the help of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that amateurs can make interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of more than £7 a glass in the growing number of establishments specialising in low-processing vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an old way of making vintage."
"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces into the liquid," says Scofield, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, pips and red liquid. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers introduce sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and then incorporate a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Environments and Inventive Solutions
In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to make French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only challenge faced by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to erect a barrier on